Ski Trip to Les Menuires (French Alpes)

European Ski Season

The European ski season typically runs from mid-December to mid-April, though snow conditions vary greatly between resorts. Climate change has increasingly affected weather patterns, making reliable snowfall less certain—and for ski enthusiasts, that’s far from ideal.

A golden rule remains: the higher the resort, the better the chances of consistent snow throughout the season. Val Thorens in France holds the distinction of being the highest ski resort in Europe, with its neighbor Les Menuires located just next door.

Les Menuires (La Croisette)

Val Thorens is the highest ski resort in Europe and the safest bet for good snow, especially toward the end of the season. Nestled in the Tarentaise Valley of the French Alps at 2,300 meters, the resort’s slopes climb to a top elevation of 3,230 meters. The French affectionately call it “Val Tho.”

Right next door lies Les Menuires, a quieter and more budget-friendly alternative.

I booked my trip for a full week, from Saturday, March 4th to Saturday, March 11th, 2023. Saturdays are key in the Alps, as most ski resorts operate on a Saturday-to-Saturday schedule. Arriving or leaving on other days can easily triple your accommodation costs.

I initially aimed for a “budget” ski trip to Val Thorens—but quickly realized that skiing and budget don’t often go hand in hand. Ski holidays are expensive, particularly for first-timers who need to invest in equipment—and not just skis and poles.

In the end, I opted for Les Menuires, staying in the “La Croisette” area, which offers great access to the slopes and sits just next door to Val Thorens.

Insurance

Skiing always carries a degree of risk, which is why it’s highly recommended to take out dedicated ski insurance. For my trip, I booked a one-week policy with Europ Assistance. The process was quick and straightforward, giving me peace of mind before hitting the slopes.

PRICE: €32 per person. You can buy your insurance on Europe Assistance

Creams & Pesonal Care

• Face Sun Cream

Don’t forget to pack sunscreen for your face—it’s essential on the slopes. A high level of protection, such as SPF 50, is strongly recommended to shield your skin from the intense mountain sun.

PRICE: €14.90 online but you can find it for €13.41 online.

• After sun cream

It’s also a good idea to bring a nourishing face cream for after skiing to help soothe and hydrate your skin.

• Lip balm

It’s recommended to take some lip balm too.

Hotel Le Pelvoux

I booked my stay at Hotel Le Pelvoux in Les Menuires, a budget-friendly two-star hotel. I discovered it on Trivago and made the reservation through Booking.com, though in hindsight, booking directly through the hotel’s website might be both cheaper and more flexible. Some packages even include half-board and a ski pass for a small additional fee.

The hotel is conveniently located on the slopes, just 150 meters from the ski lift.

Price: €991.55 for six nights, including breakfast and taxes.

Transport

There are several ways to get from Brussels to Val Thorens, each with its pros and cons:

1. By car: The distance is around 930 km, taking roughly 9 hours. Costs include fuel (€90–110 one way), French tolls (€70–80 one way), and potentially snow chains. Driving can be the most economical option if traveling with 3–4 people, but for solo travelers, it’s often not worth it. Plus, after a certain age, spending 9 hours in a car can be exhausting.

2. By train: The high-speed Thalys Snow train takes approximately 5.5–6 hours. From the train station, an additional bus ride of around 45 minutes is required to reach Val Thorens.

3. By plane: Flying is the fastest option. I opted to fly to Geneva, a flight of about 1 hour 10 minutes, followed by a 3-hour coach transfer from the airport to Val Thorens.

• Brussels Airport by train

The easiest and most affordable way to get from central Brussels to Brussels Airport (Zaventem) is by train—commonly called the “Airport Train.” The journey takes around 25 minutes, depending on which station you board. Trains depart from Brussels’ main stations: Brussels North, Brussels Central, and Brussels South.

PRICE: €10.30 per traject and €20.60 for the full trip. You can buy your tickets here.

• Brussels to Geneva by plane

I booked my flight with EasyJet, the main airline for trips between Brussels and Geneva. One-way tickets range from approximately €25 to €250, depending on timing and availability. If you need to check a suitcase (up to 23 kg), there is an additional fee of around €35–40.

PRICE: I paid €190 for the round trip Brussels to Geneva.

• Transfer

To reach Val Thorens or Les Menuires from Geneva Airport, you need to take a bus, getting off at the stop “Les Menuires Gare Routière.”

I booked with the company Alpine Fleet, but unfortunately, both journeys were far from smooth. On the outbound trip, we were scheduled to depart at 10:30 AM but experienced a 1.5-hour delay, leaving only at 12:00 PM. It appeared there may have been overbooking, and no apology was offered, which I found highly unprofessional. While the customer service team was professional, the staff at the airport seemed overwhelmed and unprepared. The return journey was even more chaotic, reinforcing a very negative overall impression.

PRICE: € 57 per trip and € 114 for a round trip. You can book your transfer on Alpine Fleet here, but I would recommend to check for another company.

Ski Clothes

Skiing requires some unavoidable investments. While you can rent equipment like skis and boots, certain items are best purchased, including a ski helmet, ski pants, ski gloves, a ski vest, and a ski mask. Everything else—like skis, poles, and sometimes jackets—can typically be rented.

• Ski Pants: Oakley TNP Lined Shell Pant

Since it was the end of the season, many shops had already sold out much of their ski stock. I picked up a pair of Oakley ski pants at 30% off. This model is lighter and less insulated—actually ideal for late-season skiing. For extra warmth, you can easily layer them over training or sport trousers.

PRICE: €190 – 30% = €133

What Oakley says about the pants:

Abrasion resistant, innovative FN DRY 10K fabric lamination and a water repellent exterior make the TNP Lined Shell Pant a great choice when winter comes calling. An adjustable waistband with Velcro® waist tabs provide lasting comfort, and inner thigh mesh provides superior ventilation. Interior boot gaiters and ankle gussets with zippers ensure additional protection from the elements, and it’s finished with waterproof zip pockets for safeguarding essentials.

• Socks: Falke “SK1 Comfort Men Skiing Knee-high Socks”

Ski socks are essential for keeping your feet warm and comfortable inside ski boots. I chose the Falke SK1 Comfort Men Skiing Knee-High Socks. Falke is a well-regarded brand, a bit pricey, but the quality is good.

The salesman assured me the socks were made of Merino wool, a natural, odor-resistant material. However, once I checked the label at home, I realized the socks contained more synthetic fibers than wool—a classic case of greenwashing.

For a one-week ski trip, you’ll need at least three pairs, wearing one pair every two days as a minimum.

Material: 44% Polypropylene, 24% Acrylic, 20% Wool, 7% Polyamide, 5% Silk

PRICE: € 30 per pair.

What Falke says about the socks:

Thanks to their extra-strength cushioning and the superior thermal insulation provided by the silk and merino wool content, the SK1 men’s ski socks are perfect for casual skiers. The rapid heat transport and moisture wicking of these socks plus their optimised shape guarantees superior comfort and a pleasant day’s skiing.

More on the socks

• Ski Gloves: Reusch Kondor Unisex R-TEX® XT

Good ski gloves are essential to survive the cold on the slopes. I chose the Reusch Kondor Unisex R-TEX® XT, which is both waterproof and breathable—perfect for staying warm and comfortable while skiing.

Material: 80% Polyester, 15% Polyurethane, 5% Elastane

In the mountains, my hands still felt a bit cold, so you might want to consider using thin under-gloves for extra warmth. The gloves are fine for temperatures above 0°C, but in resorts like the 3 Vallées, mittens might be a better choice for colder conditions.

PRICE: € 74.95 at AS Adventures in Brussels but you can find them cheaper online for €53.

What Reusch says about the gloves

Waterproof Gloves, Solid weather protection keeps hands warm, Excellent thermal performance for extremely cold days, High breathability and ideal air circulation, Ideal for hiking and winter sports

• Thermal Top: Icebreaer Merino Bodyfit 260 Tech LS Crewe

Almost everyone recommended wearing a thermal base layer, especially in Val Thorens, where it’s colder than at most other resorts. I opted for a wool version instead of a cheaper synthetic option: the Icebreaker Merino Bodyfit 260 Tech LS Crewe. Made from Merino wool, it feels exceptionally comfortable and is naturally odor-resistant, making it ideal for long days on the slopes.

PRICE: €109.95 at AS Adventure in Brussels but you can buy it online for €64.90 on Ekosport. I felt a bit ripped off.

• Neckwarmer: Buff Windproof Neckwarmer

I went for the Buff Windproof Neckwarmer Solid New Black

PRICE: € 37 at AS Adventure but you can find it online for €18

Ski Material rental

The most affordable rental option seemed to be Intersport, and Hotel Le Pelvoux even provided a 20% voucher for ski equipment there. I rented skis, poles, and boots, along with insurance, for six days.

PRICE: € 172

Ski Lessons

If you’re a beginner—or even an experienced skier—it’s always worth taking lessons to improve your technique.

There are two main options: collective or private lessons. Collective lessons usually run for half or full days, while private lessons are typically available by the hour, 90 minutes, or two hours.

Private lessons are more expensive but allow you to progress much faster. Collective lessons are a great way to learn while meeting and socializing with others.

There are several ski schools to choose from, each offering a range of packages and experiences.

• ESF

This is the most famous and well-known ski school, though it can feel a bit industrial. I took a 90-minute lesson and was very satisfied with the quality—I learned more in this session than anywhere else.

I preferred it over Proneige, and it was slightly cheaper as well.

PRICE = € 82.50 for 90 minutes

• ProNeige

I took a 60-minute lesson and was generally satisfied, though I found the instructor tended to talk a bit too much during the session.

PRICE = € 62 for 60 minutes

Restaurants

If you’re planning a late dinner, it’s wise to book a table in advance, as most people dine after 20:30. If you aim for an earlier time, around 19:00, you can usually get a table without a reservation.

• La Brasserie Bellevue

For dinner, I started with the soup of the day (carrot) and followed it with a beef poke bowl, accompanied by a 50 cl Perrier. The food was tasty, though the soup could have been warmer. The restaurant wasn’t busy, and the prices were on the higher side—€18 for a soup.

Despite that, I would happily order both dishes again.

PRICE = €38

• Le Garde Manger

I chose the Menu Savoyard at €27, which included a Savoyard salad (or onion soup), a Savoyard fondue with salad (or a tartiflette), and a dessert of fromage blanc (or ice cream). I paired it with a 50 cl Perrier. The meal was enjoyable, and I would happily order this menu again.

PRICE = € 30.50

• Le Comptoir

I ordered the roasted half chicken with vegetables and truffle mashed potatoes, accompanied by sparkling water. The restaurant was full and quite noisy, but the dish was excellent—I would definitely return and have it again.

PRICE = €32.80

• L’hacienda

L’Hacienda is a Tex-Mex restaurant and pizzeria. I ordered the €21.50 chicken sizzling fajitas with a 33 cl Perrier. The dish didn’t quite hit the mark for me, so I wouldn’t choose it again.

PRICE = 24.90€

• Pizzeria

There’s also a more affordable option—pizzas—but I wouldn’t choose this pizza again.

PRICE = 14€

• Le Yeti

I tried the house specialty, Tartiflette, along with a 33 cl Perrier and a Tarte Tatin. The Tartiflette was excellent, and I would gladly have it again. Unfortunately, the Tarte Tatin was very disappointing—too bitter and unpleasant, and to make matters worse, I found a hair on it. The dessert significantly spoiled my experience, and I’m unsure I would return to this restaurant.

• Le Skilt

I ordered the Skilt Burger with a 33 cl Perrier. Skilt is a hotel, bar, and restaurant run by Brits, giving it a distinctly British atmosphere—which I really enjoyed. It was a bit noisy, but I would definitely go back.

PRICE = € 24.20

Ski Slopes

Some pictures taken at the « 3 Vallées » ski domain